Selection of Textiles and Clothing

NIOS Home Science Module 5 • Lesson 26

1 Selection of Fabric for Different End Uses

The difference in fabrics is due to differences in fabric properties, which depend on fibre, yarn, fabric construction techniques, and finishes. Selecting the right fabric requires understanding these inherent properties.

Fibre Length & Appearance

Staple Fibres (Cotton, Jute, Wool): Have a rough look. Short, wavy fibres tend to become dirty easily.

Filament Fibres (Nylon, Polyester, Silk): Have a smooth and shiny look. Long, smooth fibres resist dirt and are easy to clean.

Moisture Absorption

High Absorbency (Cotton): Absorbs sweat, keeping skin cool in hot, humid weather. Essential for undergarments and socks.

Low Absorbency (Synthetics): Uncomfortable in summer as they do not soak sweat.

Heat Conductivity

Good Conductors (Cotton, Rayon): Conduct heat away from the body; keep the body cool.

Poor/Bad Conductors (Wool, Silk, Synthetics): Retain heat; keep the body warm. Wool is the worst conductor.

Strength (Wet vs Dry)

Strong when wet: Cotton and Synthetics. Can withstand hard scrubbing. Ideal for daily wear.

Weak when wet: Wool, Silk, Rayon. Require delicate washing. Nylon is the strongest (used for parachutes/ropes).

Construction & Finishes Impact

Construction: Knitting provides stretchability (socks, sweaters), while weaving provides firm, smooth fabrics (dresses).
Finishes: Enhance appearance/function (e.g., waterproof, shrinkage control). Warning: Manufacturers sometimes over-starch inferior cloth. If you rub the fabric and a white powder shakes out, avoid buying it as it indicates poor quality concealed by sizing.

2 Factors Influencing Selection of Clothing

Our clothing choices are heavily dictated by external and personal factors ensuring comfort, appropriateness, and functionality.

Climatic Factors

Cottons for summer, woollens for winter. Desert dwellers wear thick turbans (head protection) and long robes to stay cool.

Occasion

Bright, elaborate outfits for marriages (lehnga cholis). Simple, formal attire for interviews. Dark, wrinkle-resistant clothes for traveling.

Age Variations

  • Infants: Need soft, light, absorbent (cotton) clothes with simple front/double-breasted openings.
  • School Children: Active stage. Need strong, durable fabrics that withstand tear and frequent laundering. Require wide seam allowances for rapid growth.
  • Teenagers: Prioritize style and fit over construction. Prefer mix-and-match pieces for variety.
  • Adults (Working): Need easily laundered, wrinkle-resistant fabrics.
  • Old Age: Need loose, comfortable, light material with easy-to-manipulate front openings and large buttons/buttonholes.

Profession & Occupation

Specialized activities require specific apparel. Examples: Doctors (white coats for hygiene/soothing effect), Nuclear workers (radiation overalls), Astronauts (space suits), Firemen (fireproof fabrics), Kitchen workers (snug cotton, no hanging dupattas).

3 Quality Assurance: Labels & Markings

Labels and markings are quality indicators that help consumers make informed choices regarding durability, maintenance, and origin.

Type Definition & Characteristics Example
Label (General) Paper/plastic/fabric attached to an object providing information (maker, use). Tag inside a shirt.
Marking Shapes/designs printed directly on the surface of yardage at the beginning of a 'Thaan'. Printed logo on fabric roll edge.
Brand Label Identifies the product via emblem, picture, or name. Bombay Dyeing, DCM.
Certification Label Claims approval of an external agency; verifies accepted standards are met. Woolmark (pure wool).
Care Label Gives specific information regarding washing, ironing, and storing. "Machine wash cold".
Informative Label Tells consumers about composition, expected performance, and end-use suitability. "100% Cotton, Shrink-resistant".

4 Malpractices & Judging Quality

Common Retail Malpractices

  • Lesser Quantity: Stretching fabric while measuring or using a short measuring rod (e.g., getting 3.8m instead of 4m).
  • Price Cheating: Charging more than printed prices by citing fake taxes or charging extra for vague terms like 'silk finish'.
  • Selling Defectives: Selling 'seconds' (defective goods) at the price of fresh stock.
  • Misleading Labels: Providing false/incomplete information (e.g., omitting light-fastness data on curtain fabric).
Protection: Consumers are protected under the Consumer Protection Regulation Act (1988).

Judging Fabric & Garment Quality

Fabric Quality Checks:
  • Weave: Apply tension between thumbs; threads should not slope. Avoid long floats (they snag). Filler yarns must meet selvedge at 90° (if oblique, it is off-grain).
  • Finish: Should smell clean, not oily. Check creases for dye rubbing off. No white powder on rubbing (indicates excess sizing).
Ready-Made Selection (4 Elements of Design):

Design depends on style line, shape form, colour, and texture. It should achieve balance, proportion, emphasis, rhythm, and unity.

  • Fit: Check shoulders, bust, waist, and length.
  • Workmanship: Check wrong side. Seams should be double, finished, no puckers. Ample seam allowance.

Factors Influencing Clothing Selection

A visual map of the key external and personal factors that dictate what type of apparel is appropriate.

Clothing Selection Climate Occasion Age Profession
Caption: The central decision of selecting clothing is simultaneously influenced by the climate (e.g. cotton vs wool), the occasion (formal vs casual), the wearer's age (e.g. infants vs elderly requirements), and their specific profession/activities.

Ready-Made Garment Selection Process

Sequential criteria for judging and selecting a ready-made garment.

1

Design

Style, shape, colour, texture

2

Fit

Shoulders, bust, waist, length

3

Workmanship

Seams, puckers, seam allowance

4

Price

Value relative to quality

5

Care

Maintenance & laundering

Caption: The sequential approach to evaluating ready-mades: Ensure aesthetic appeal (Design), test suitability on the body (Fit), inspect the wrong side for construction quality (Workmanship), justify the cost (Price), and confirm long-term feasibility (Care/Maintenance).

High-Yield Exam Golden Rules

Rule #1: The Rub & Tension Tests

Always apply tension between thumbs to check fabric strength (yarns shouldn't slope). To check for excessive starch/sizing hiding poor quality, rub the fabric—if a white powder falls out, it's inferior.

Rule #2: Fibre Conductivity is Key

Remember core thermal properties: Cotton and Rayon are good conductors (keep you cool/summer), while Wool and Silk are poor conductors (keep you warm/winter). Wool is the worst conductor.

Rule #3: The "Wrong Side" Inspection

When judging ready-mades, always turn the garment inside out to check workmanship. Look for double seams, finished edges, lack of puckers, and adequate seam allowance.

Rule #4: Garments Must Match the Age

Infants need soft/absorbent front-openings. School children need highly durable fabrics with room to grow. Elderly need loose clothing with large fasteners and front openings.

Rule #5: Recognize Quality Labels

Differentiate labels: "Woolmark" is a Certification label (guarantees standards). Care labels dictate maintenance. Lack of descriptive fastness info indicates incomplete/misleading labeling (a malpractice).

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