Fabric Construction
Have you noticed the differences in the clothes you wear or the fabrics you use for curtains? Some are thick, some thin, some plain, and some patterned. These differences are due to their construction. A fabric is any piece of cloth created by converting fibers and yarns into a usable material.
1 Methods of Fabric Construction
Core Concept: Fabrics can be constructed using various techniques. The most common methods are weaving and knitting, but there are several others designed for specific purposes.
Weaving
Two sets of yarns are interlaced at right angles. It gives a firm fabric (e.g., poplin, denim).
Knitting
One ball of yarn is interlooped to create a stretchable fabric. Used for hosiery, sweaters, and T-shirts.
Non-Woven
Made directly from fibers held together by mechanical forces, gum, or heat (e.g., Namada).
Braided Fabrics
Created like braiding hair. Used mainly for trimmings and shoe laces.
Nets
Open-mesh fabrics with geometrical shapes. Used for mosquito nets.
Laces
Yarns are criss-crossed to create intricate, decorative designs for trimmings.
2 Weaving and Its Terminology
In weaving, two sets of yarns are interlaced at right angles to one another in an established sequence on a loom.
- Selvedge: The two long finished edges along the length of the fabric. They give strength to the edges.
- Warp (Ends): The yarns running along the length of the fabric, parallel to the selvedge.
- Weft (Picks/Fillings): The yarns running perpendicular to the warp yarns, interlaced in a crosswise direction.
- Thread Count: The total number of warps and wefts per square inch. A higher thread count usually indicates better quality and durability.
3 Types of Basic Weaves
1. Plain Weave
The simplest and most inexpensive. Each weft goes alternately under and over warp yarns. (e.g., organdy, chiffon).
- Rib Weave: Thin yarns combined with thick yarns create a line effect.
- Basket Weave: Two or more weft yarns are interlaced as a unit (e.g., Mattee fabric).
2. Twill Weave
Characterized by a clear diagonal line on the face. It is very strong, durable, and shows soil less quickly. Commonly used for denim, jeans, and suits.
3. Satin Weave
Has a beautiful shiny surface due to long floats (warp yarns floating over several weft yarns). However, long floats snag easily, making it less strong than plain or twill.
4 Knitting
Definition: Making cloth with the help of needles to create a series of interlocking loops with a single yarn.
This method produces a comfortable, stretchable fabric that fits various sizes and does not wrinkle easily. It is ideal for winter wear as the air spaces trap body heat.
- Courses: The series of successive loops lying in the crosswise (horizontal) direction.
- Wales: The lengthwise or vertical columns of loops.
5 Weaving vs. Knitting
| Property | Weaving | Knitting |
|---|---|---|
| Yarns Used | Two sets interlaced at right angles. | One set interlooped with itself. |
| Equipment | Loom (handloom or automatic). | Needles (hand or machine). |
| Fabric Properties | Firm, smooth, stable, maintain stiffness. | Wrinkle-resistant, stretchable, limp, fits body. |
| Care | Needs proper washing and ironing. | No ironing, dry flat. |
Fabric Structures & Weaves
The Structural Difference: Weaving vs. Knitting
Visualizing the Three Basic Weaves
Golden Rules & Exam Tips
1 Weaving Terminology
Always remember: Warp = Ends (lengthwise yarns). Weft = Picks/Fillings (crosswise yarns). Selvedge is the finished edge.
2 Identify the Weave
Exams often ask you to match fabric to weave. Denim/Jeans = Twill weave (strong, diagonal). Chiffon/Organdy = Plain weave. Shiny fabrics = Satin weave (long floats).
3 Knitting Characteristics
Unlike weaving (two sets of yarn), knitting uses one continuous yarn to form interlocking loops. This gives it stretch and makes it wrinkle-resistant, perfect for hosiery.
4 Thread Count Matters
Thread Count (warps + wefts per sq. inch) dictates quality. A higher thread count means a denser, firmer, and more durable woven fabric.
Practice Quiz
Concept Flashcards
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